Dirt Late Model Setup Guide

  1. Dirt Late Model Setup Tips
  2. Metric Dirt Street Stock Setup
  3. Dirt Street Stock Setup Guide
  4. Dirt Race Car Setup Guide
  5. Rocket Dirt Late Model Setup Guide


Download >>Download Grt chassis tuning manual
Read Online >>Read Online Grt chassis tuning manual

Dirt Late Model Axle Set-Ups-Typical Axle Lengths and diameters for Dirt Late Model Axle setup. Axle wrap will make it more difficult for the tire to break traction on acceleration.

  1. COMPLETE DIRT LATE MODEL RACE CAR COMPLETE CHASSIS SET UP & TECHNOLOGY MANUAL - COVERING: Front & Rear Suspension, Steering, Adjusting 4-Link, Panhard Bar Adjustment, Brackets, Right Rear Double Spring Adjustment, 5th & 6th Coils, Tires - A complete guide to setting up and adjusting the Dirt Late Model and 4-link suspension.
  2. This video explains what is left rear drop in a dirt late model race car. Video shows easy way to check drop and things that may cause problems is incorrect.

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Chassis Guide (Information being added!) Baseline Chassis Setup Sheets GRT Late Model General Setup Sheet · GRT Modified 0-199 Chassis SetupB- MOD SETUP SHEET. APPLIES TO 2012 AND NEWER GRT B-MODS RF: 7 3/4” RO 8” FROM GROUND TO CENTER LINE OF LOWER A-FRAME BOLT. Dirt Late Model Chassis Technology - By: Joe Garrison of Grt Race Cars & Steve Smith Dirt Track Chassis and Suspension: Advanced Setup and Design 11 Nov 2014 THE COMPLETE BUILDER'S GUIDE TO HOT ROD CHASSIS AND SUSPENSION suspension and steering, rear suspension, shocks, wheels and tires, setup and alignment, track tuning and adjustment. by Joe Garrison of GRT Race Cars Takes you through design, construction, suspension, set-up, theory and all other Steve Smith Autosports S145 Book - Guide to Fabricating Shop Equipment. Click on one of the following links to get setup help for your GRT racecar. Please feel free to print out GRT Race Cars Adjustment Guide. * 2000 and older Late GRT RACE CARS ADJUSTMENT GUIDE (Feel Free to Print Out). TIGHT ON ENTRY. LOOSE ON ENTRY. TIGHT IN MIDDLE. LOOSE IN MIDDLE. TIGHT ON 83 S. Broadview St. Greenbrier, AR 72058 0 Phone: 501.679.2311 0 www.TeamGRT.com. GRT RACE CARS ADJUSTMENT GUIDE. TIGHT. ON. ENTRY. Link angle adjustments . Aerodynamic dirt and modified race cars www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1505-dirt-race-car-setup-prep/

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Published: June 26, 2017

Acknowledgment: this page was mirrored from Trackpedia.

Note: this page refers to circle track driving.All corners are left turns. Translated to road course driving,'left' when referring to the position of a part on a car means 'inside'and 'right' means 'outside'.

How To Sort Out Your Car At The Track

This page is going to be used to describe how to setup a circle track race carstep by step for a specific track. The idea is to go from easiest firststeps (tire pressures, ride height, etc) to the most complicated steps(camber, toe, spring rates).

Driver / Crew Chief Communication

In order for any race car to go fast it must get around the turns quicklyand comfortably for the driver. The key to building corner speed week inand week out is a strong communication relationship between the driver and crew chief. The ability of the driver to provide informative feedback tothe crew chief is paramount.

Dirt

Crew Chief Communication Responsibilities

Make it easy for the driver to provide clear and informative feedback. Accept driver feedback 'as is' and strive to understand the communication.Remember, if the driver is not satisfied with the cornering of the carthen some corrective action must be taken to make him more comfortable.Build the drivers confidence by accepting his feedback when the car isnot comfortable for his driving style. The driver may have troubleexpressing what the car is doing. Strive to understand the true problem. If a driver is unhappy with the car something needs to be fixed. Theproblem may be different from his feedback but there is a problem thatstill needs to be identified. If the driver is not comfortable with the car you must find a way to make it more comfortable. Ask the driver manyquestions relating to his feedback. Cut through any emotion and provokequality responses. Keep the egos out and listen intently. Offer suggestionsabout different potential chassis changes that address the drivers concern.Realize that all drivers use their own style and that a previouslysuccessful set up from another driver may not work for someone utilizinga different style. Adapt to the current driver instead of forcing him intoa mold. Break the corner down to invoke clear feedback.

Driver Communication Responsibilities

Feel the car and communicate the characteristics of the car in order.Express feelings about each section of the corner without too much emotion.Express what the car is doing to the crew chief before suggesting any chassischanges. Proper corner feedback provides for a lot of information to assess.Making adjustment suggestions at the same time interferes with the driverability to clearly express the feeling from the car to the crew chief.Remember to provide feedback in digestible amounts. Allow the crew chiefto analyze the information before suggesting changes. After the crew chiefhas analyzed driver feedback, tire temperatures, air pressure and stagger information it is then appropriate to discuss possible changes with the crew chief. Give your crew chief the benefit of the doubt on the close calls. Avoid running around the pits getting random advice. Take your bestinformation and make a decision.

Breaking Down the Corner

To achieve clear and concise information it will help the driver and crew chief if they look at the corner in sections. By using common terminology,the driver and crew chief will better understand the specific area in the corner that needs addressing.

Corner Entry

The corner entry is the area where the driver lifts and begins braking.Maximum braking pressures usually occur at the end of this area. Steering input is just beginning.

The Cut Zone

The cut zone is the area just past the corner entry where the car beginsto turn or cut down into the corner. Brakes are usually applied stronglybut brake pressures are decreasing as the car passes through the cut zone.Steering input is increasing as the car travels down into the corner.

The Middle

The middle is the area just past the cut zone that contains the actual apexof the turn. The apex is the true center of the corner where the car changesdirection. At some tracks this can be before the visual center of the turn.Braking pressures are ideally at zero before entering this zone and the caris allowed to roll through the middle. Steering input is usually at itsmaximum point at the apex. The car takes a set and changes direction at theapex. Acceleration begins after the car takes a set.

Acceleration Zone

The acceleration zone is the area just past the middle of the turn where thedriver gets down harder on the accelerator. A good roll through the middleand a strong ability to get the throttle down, sets the car up for a goodturn exit. Steering input reduces as the car travels through this zone.

The Exit

The exit of the turn is the area just past the acceleration zone where thecar makes the final approach to the straightaway. Steering input is reducedto zero and throttle pressure is increased to maximum as the car travels offthe turn.

By breaking the corner down into sections the driver and crew chief willincrease their odds of being on the same page.

Making the Most of the Corner Breakdown Feedback

In order to communicate properly each section of the corner should bediscussed in order. There is no benefit in worrying about the center of thecorner if the car is unstable on entry. The preceding zone affects the nextzone. Make sure that the car makes a good entry, then cuts, then rollsthrough the middle, then accelerates and then makes a good exit. Reconsideryour adjustments if your corrective action adversely affects any precedingzone in the corner area you are addressing.

Again, whenever making any adjustment you must consider each corner area.Adjustments cannot upset the preceding section of the corner.

Dirt Late Model Setup Tips

For example, lets say that your car is stable on turn entry and pushing inthe middle. You decide to put a softer RF spring in the car. Afterinstalling the RF spring the car becomes unstable on entry. You now mustmake an adjustment to make the car stable on entry, as a car that cannot getinto the corner comfortably will lose speed throughout the rest of the turn.Cure the entry before worrying too much about the middle and start over ifany adjustment affects a preceding area of the corner.

Common Feedback Traps

Cars that are loose on entry nearly always push in the middle as the driversimply is unable to aggressively turn the steering wheel at the right time.Basically, a loose entry causes the driver to miss the entire turn. There isno point making changes that deal with the middle when the car is loose in.

Cars that push in the middle of the turn are very likely to be loose oncorner exit. The angular momentum of the car is upset and the car travelsoff the exit on the wrong line due to the push in the middle. The car pushesand moves up. On exit the car runs out of room in the groove and oftenbecomes loose on the late exit as the driver overturns to avoid contact withthe wall. Many times when you loosen the car up to get a better run throughthe middle it will hook up better on exit.

A car that is loose on corner entry should be cured at all costs. A car thatis loose on entry is uncomfortable for the driver and is very difficult todrive. The driver really has no way to adapt his line for a loose entryproblem. Basically, the driver just has to slow down and ride. Cars that areloose on entry make for a long day.

If the car is tight in the middle the driver can adjust his line and improvehis situation by diamonding the track. If the car is loose in the middle oron the exit he can try a higher line. Loose entry is just a bad deal. Neverallow your car to suffer through a race with a loose entry condition.

Adjustment Tips

Below are some tips on how you can make changes to your car. Like allgeneral statements real world track conditions can contradict what is listedbelow. Proper context must prevail. The information might allow you to speedup your own learning curve through your actual track testing and raceexperience. Further, these tips better apply to asphalt stock cars that arebuilt by a major manufacturer that run on tracks 1 mile and under.

All information assumes that the car has the proper parts installed and thatthe rear end is square. The simplest way to go fast is to insure that allfour wheels are pointing in the same direction. Suggestions are listed inorder of priority. Keep in mind that the order can vary drasticallydepending on the many variables faced and differing track conditions.

Loose Everywhere

Tip: Fix it !!! Never start a race with this condition! A loose everywherecar will be very hard to drive. Driver adjustments will be of very littlehelp. There is little benefit from small changes with this condition. Staywith changes that make a significant difference.

  • More front spring rate
  • Less rear spring rate
  • More sway bar or sway bar load
  • Lower the panhard bar
  • Less stagger

Tight Everywhere

Tip: Fix it !!! A tight everywhere car will not be hard to drive but will beslow. There is little benefit from small changes with this condition. Staywith changes that make a significant difference.

  • Less front spring rate
  • More rear spring rate
  • Less sway bar or sway bar load
  • Raise the panhard bar
  • More stagger

One particularly common case, is when there is a bit of understeer (tight)during corner entry at sharp corners. This case can have several reasons:

  • Driving technique: The most common reason. The driver often brakes too lateand ends up reaching the corner too fast, thus steering in a jerky mannerwhile staying too hard on the brakes. In this case, drivers are at timesinclined to believe they are running smoothly. The key is to brake early,turn late, turn quickly but smoothly while lightly on the brakes.If the problem is only with one or two corners, and the car handles welleverywhere else, then driving technique is definitely the recommended cure. Don't ruin a good handling setup to improve one or two minor corners usinghardware changes.
  • Tires: If the issue is consistent, the next option is the tires: check the wear and PSI. wo possible options: decrease the front, or increase the rear pressures. To decide which one to do, look at tire temperature profiles. In particular, look at the center temperatures. If the front center temps look a little high, then decrease the front tire psi by 1 psig. If the rear center temps look a little low then increase the rear tire pressure by 1 psig. Try one, then the other, if necessary. If neither works, put the pressures back to what they were.
  • Changes to springs and dampers are not likely to be useful.
  • Either soften the front or stiffen the rear.
  • Add 1/16' Total front toe out. If the problem continues and is acute, you may consider adding another 1/4 or 1/2 degree negative camber.

Loose Entry or Loose Cut Zone

Tip: Fix it !!! Never start a race with this condition! As stated before,loose entry is one of the worst kinds of cornering problems. Curing looseentry conditions is a high priority item. Here are some things to try:

  • More front spring rate
  • Less rear spring rate
  • Less rear weight
  • More sway bar or sway bar load
  • Less rear brake bias
  • Lower the panhard bar
  • Less stagger
  • More front shock compression
  • Less rear shock compression
  • Less top link angle (less anti squat)
  • More diagonal weight
  • Less RR trailing arm angle
  • Shorter RF A-arm
  • More toe out
  • More positive caster
  • Add anti dive

Stable Entry / Tight Cut Zone

Tip: Work on it !!! Sometimes gets worse and progresses to a push in themiddle but driver can usually make some driving adjustments.

  • Less RF spring
  • More LF spring
  • Raise panhard bar
  • More rear spring rate or RR spring
  • Less diagonal weight
  • More stagger
  • More front camber if temperatures verify
  • Longer RF A-arm (maybe add static camber at same time)
  • More rear weight
  • More caster split
  • More rear brake
  • Less RF shock compression
  • More LR shock rebound
Guide

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Tight Middle

Tip: Fix it. !!! Depending on severity can get worse. Driver can makelimited driving adjustments.

  • More rear stagger
  • Raise panhard bar
  • Less RF spring
  • More LF spring
  • More RR trailing arm angle
  • Less diagonal
  • More LR shock rebound
  • Less RF shock compression
  • More Ackerman
  • More RR spring
  • More front camber if verified by tire temperatures
  • More caster split

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Loose Middle

Tip: Work on it !!! At some tracks this condition can come to you in thelong run. However only experience can tell you if this would be a safe gamble.

  • Less rear stagger
  • Lower panhard bar
  • Less RR trailing arm angle
  • More RF spring
  • Less RR spring
  • Less LR rebound
  • More RF compression

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Good Middle / Tight Acceleration Zone

Tip: Work on it !!! Usually gets worse. Driver can make limited adjustments.This situation works well with inexperienced drivers.

  • Less top link angle
  • Slightly more stagger
  • Small raising of panhard bar
  • Slightly more RR trailing arm angle
  • Slightly less diagonal
  • More LF shock rebound
  • More RF shock rebound
  • More RR shock compression
  • Less RF shock compression
  • Slightly less RF spring
  • Slightly more RR spring

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Good Middle / Loose Acceleration Zone

Tip: Fix it !!! Hard to drive and usually gets worse. Not recommended forthe inexperienced driver.

  • More top link angle
  • Less stagger
  • Lower the panhard bar
  • Less RR trailing angle
  • More LR spring. RR spring softer than LR spring by 10% +/-
  • More diagonal
  • Less LF shock rebound
  • Less RF shock rebound
  • Less RR shock compression
  • Less Ackerman
  • More RF spring
  • Bigger sway bar or more sway bar load

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Good Middle / Good Acceleration Zone / Tight Exit

Tip: Work on it !!! Many times an excellent place to start a long race.Experience dictates if this is a good gamble. Easy to drive. Usually freesup as the tires wear.

  • Slightly less top link angle
  • Slightly more stagger
  • Small raising of panhard bar
  • Slightly more RR trailing arm angle
  • Slightly less diagonal
  • More LF shock rebound
  • More RF shock rebound
  • More RR shock compression
  • Less RF shock compression
  • Slightly more RR spring (Reduce spring split in rear to 5% stiffer LR or to equal rears)
  • More Ackerman
  • Slightly less RF spring

Metric Dirt Street Stock Setup

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Good Middle / Good Acceleration Zone / Loose Exit

Tip: Fix it !!! Hard to drive and usually gets worse. Not a good set up forthe inexperienced driver.

  • More top link angle
  • Less stagger
  • Lower the panhard bar
  • Less RR trailing arm angle
  • More LR spring. RR spring softer than LR spring by 10% +/-
  • More diagonal
  • Less LF shock rebound
  • Less RF shock rebound
  • Less RR shock compression
  • Less Ackerman
  • More RF spring (If LF is stiffer than RF think about equal fronts or softer LF)
  • Bigger sway bar or more sway bar load

Stable Entry / Good Cut Zone / Good Middle / Good Acceleration Zone / Good Exit

Tip: Run it !!! Take care of your equipment. Win !!! Document for future use.

Dirt Street Stock Setup Guide

Contradictions

Be aware that some times cars don't seem to follow the rules. You can getconditions that contradict the rules. Generally, you see this conditionwhen you have gone to extremes with adjustments. 'The Rules' only apply when you are near the center of the range. If you get outside the rangewith your adjustments many things can happen to confuse the issue.

When your car does not seem to get around the turns right you should firsthave a look at any adjustments that are to an extreme compared to what yourcar builder recommends or from what you have learned from your own experiences.

The Soft Push

The soft push occurs when you get below the spring rate that holds thefront end up. The suspension runs through its full travel too quicklyand in effect bottoms out as the car enters the turn.

'The Rules' say that you should put in softer front springs when the carpushes. What if you are already too soft? For example, lets say you typicallywould run 400's in the front of a coil over car or 900's in the front of abig spring car. The car has been pushing so you keep dropping front springrate. Now, as an exaggeration, you are down to 250's in the front of thecoil over car and 400's in the front of the big spring car. The car willroll through the suspension travel too quickly and the car will push evenworse.

The point is that you can be fooled into going softer on the front spring rate to cure a push when the reality is that the front springs are finebut another adjustment would be a better option. When you get too soft in the front the car can push and installing a stiffer front spring actuallymakes the car turn better.

Soft Loose

Just as with the soft push the same condition can occur with the rear springs.If you get the rear too soft the car can get loose as the suspension travelis used up too quickly and effectively bottoms out. In this case, a stifferrear spring can hook the car up better.

Skate

Sometimes your car will skate in the turns. The whole car seems to slide upinto the second groove. The driver has trouble running the low line. Many times the driver explains this condition as a push.

Panhard Bar Too High - A panhard bar that is too high can cause the skatingcondition. As the car gets to the 'cut zone' the high panhard bar can pull the rear of the car up the track into the second groove. When this conditionoccurs the driver often steers to the right to catch the car as it enters the turn. By the time the car gets to the middle it is out of position and the angle of the car is pointing towards the wall instead of down thestraightaway. At this point, the driver feels the car push and reports thatinformation to the crew chief. Be aware. In this contradiction, lowering thepanhard bar can make the car turn better.

Dirt Race Car Setup Guide

Dirt Late Model Setup Guide

Too Much Rear Weight - Too much rear weight can make the car skate very similarto when the 'too high' panhard skate occurs. The pendulum effect of the rearweight pulls the rear of the car up and the driver corrects to the right. A push then occurs at the middle which the driver feels more than the entryproblem. The driver then reports a push to the crew chief. In this case, lessrear weight would reduce the skating problem.

Awareness of 'the soft push' and 'soft loose' will allow you to think of otheradjustments when 'the rules' are not working out.

Rocket Dirt Late Model Setup Guide

Break the corner down, section-by-section, and you will speed both your carand your learning curve.